I just returned from my first-ever visit to North Manitou Island, one of two islands in Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakehore. I’m enamored with mainland Sleeping Bear Dunes, so I knew before we departed that I would love this further removed branch of the park.

We—6 women including me—planned a 2-night backpacking trip running clockwise around the island from the village dock. (This was another Wanderlust Outfitter’s scouting trip, planned by Abby Chatfield).

A common spirit united our crew—the kind of enthusiasm for the outdoors that inspires you to so say, I will willingly haul a heavy bag for 25 miles on a mosquito, poison ivy, and tick-laden island and I will find great joy in that experience.  

We left on a rainy Friday morning, boarding the Manitou Island Transit ferry (Village Cheese Shanty sandwiches in hand, of course). It had stormed the night before and a thick mist still lingered over the lake, creating a dreamlike haze. Perfectly, the drizzle cleared as we approached the North Manitou dock.

We spent the first afternoon hiking along the southeast and southwest edges of the island, exploring the island’s cemetery and the Bourniques cabin. Much of our conversation revolved around the wildlife. North Manitou is home to docile deer, plentiful garter snakes, a full-fledge invasion of centipedes, skittering ground squirrels, pileated woodpeckers, and many chattering songbirds.

As evening approached, we pitched our tents just north of the designated Johnson Place camp on a bluff overlooking Lake Michigan and South Manitou Island. (On North Manitou, backpackers with permits may camp anywhere more than 300ft from the water, other’s camps, and historical landmarks.)

We spent the evening soaking our sore feet in nature’s ice bath—Lake Michigan in June. We hydrated and devoured our various dehydrated meals while we watched a silky pink sunset fade into the water.

On our second day, we hiked up the west edge of the island through a mix of shady forests and bright sunny meadows. We explored Swenson’s Barn (a large horse barn) and rested, rock hunted, and lunched on the dunes near Crescent Dock.

We made our way to the center of the island—Lake Manitou—for the evening. The cool breezes blowing in off the lake protected us from the rampant mosquito population. Lake Manitou was much milder than Lake Michigan and we all took the opportunity to wash of the day’s sweat with a cool dip.

Sunday morning, we made our last trek—less than three miles from our campsite on Lake Manitou to the village for the 12:30pm ferry. Our crew resembled a rag-tag team of scouts decked in plaid button downs and emerald, banana, and coral-colored bandanas. The route to the village was mostly wooded and interspersed with pretty patches of wildflowers—Indian paintbrushes, buttercups, daisies, and purple cow vetch.

The park ranger and ferry operators recommended we arrive early in case of any weather-related adjustments to the ferry schedule. We passed the extra time sunbathing on the ferry dock and exploring wooden, white-washed homes in the village (old summer homes in various stages of restoration and disrepair).

We loaded our packs back onto the ferry and headed back to our port in Fishtown, Leland where we rewarded ourselves with Fishtown treats. Some opted for a second round of cheese shop sandwiches. I opted for a great-big waffle cone full of Bear Tracks from the Dam Candy Store.

The whole weekend was a much-needed retreat filled with belly laughs, sunshine, and the remarkable beauty of Sleeping Bear. I will be back to visit North Manitou’s counterpart, South Manitou Island, soon.

Have you been? Which island is your favorite?

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