Esch Road Beach in Winter
THE DRAW
A beach—in Michigan—may not be your first-choice midwinter destination. But if you’ve witnessed her icy magic, you know Lake Michigan in winter is a rejuvenating treat.
During the winter months, certain stretches of the Great Lakes shoreline transform into a Narnian winter wonderland. Rustic beaches are especially otherworldly, cleansing, and certainly commensurate with their summertime counterparts.
In winter, there are no colorful beach towels to navigate, no chaotic parking lot, and no blistering heat. There are only beamy snow-covered dunes, frozen stones under frigid blue water, and patches of green beach grass holding tightly to frosty sand.
THE PLACE
Esch Road Beach is one of my favorite secluded beaches to visit during winter. It is not entirely remote, as it is part of Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, but it is the most off-the-beaten path of the publicly maintained beaches near the village of Empire. It is tucked 4 miles south of the village center.
To find it, simply turn west (toward Lake Michigan) on Esch Road when you meet the intersection of Esch Road and M-22. Then follow the winding country road all the way past the “dead end” sign. (If gorgeous beaches on magnificent lakes are what we’re calling “dead ends” these days, I’ll skip “the path less traveled” and take “the path that dead ends.”)
I seek out Esch Road in all four seasons because it is dog-friendly, it faces west (which offers a clear horizon line to take in a sunset), and because it is punctuated on its north end by a gorgeous section of Empire Bluffs.
Esch Road Beach is nestled at the mouth of Otter Creek and is adjacent to the Otter Creek loop, which is a wooded 4.6-mile Nordic ski trail that winds around three small inland lakes (Otter, Bass, and Deer). It is one of my wintertime go-tos because it offers great hiking terrain for a casual hike, a hilly place to snowshoe, a flat semi-groomed place to cross-country ski, and soul-filling views of Lake Michigan.
Despite how frigid a day near Lake Michigan in winter may seem, it is incredible how warm I feel at beach after a vigorous ski, on a sunny day in January or February, when I turn my face toward the sun. Even on a cloudy day, the refreshing breeze of the lake and the gray-blue ski stirs something in me.
I come away from every visit revitalized.
If you want to plan your own replenishing winter adventure to Esch Road Beach, here are some ideas…
THE ADVENTURES
Start out Simple and Plan a Hike
If you are not a snowshoeing or skiing aficionado, you may want to check out the beach and/or trail by boot (aka by hike). You can follow all of the tips in the cross-country ski blurb below, but on foot. Just be careful to avoid stepping on the cross-country ski tracks during your hike. Also, do not plan your hike immediately after a heavy snowfall, which might be difficult to navigate without skis or snowshoes. Investing a pair of Yak Trax is always a simple way to give your normal snow boots a little more traction.
Cross-Country Ski the Otter Creek Loop
The 4.6-mile Nordic ski loop is a perfect morning or afternoon excursion. The trail is part wooded single-track and part groomed seasonal road. The whole route is relatively flat and offers a good mix of woods, lake views, and open fields. My favorite stretch (pictured above) is the enchanting white pine stand at the beginning of the loop (or the end depending on which way you decide to go). You will need cross-country skis fit for Nordic touring. If you’re a not-too-serious sport skier or a recreational cross-country skier, I recommend a style that works well on both groomed cross-country tracks and blazing your own trail on seasonal roads. I love my Salomon Snowscape 5 Nordic touring skis. (Bonus, they’re unisex!)
Snowshoe the Beach and Bluff
Snowshoes with at least two rows of metal teeth (I recommend MSR brand) give me the sturdiest snowshoeing feeling. They’re a great tool to stay safe (and upright!) on icy beaches. Simply snowshoeing along the shoreline is a beautiful adventure. But, if you’re up for a more intense challenge, snowshoes also make it easier to scale hills you may not normally be able to scale. They not only prevent you from sinking into the snow, but they also enable you to dig in and lean into a dune with a much stronger grip than usual. The photo above is from a particularly memorable snowshoeing adventure on New Year’s Day 6 years ago. We started at Esch Road Beach and scaled the edge of a dune to catch the sunset. This bright-pink, glittering sunset is still the most beautiful sunset I’ve ever experienced. (iPhone photos from 6 years ago don’t do it justice, of course).
Plan to Refuel
You are bound to be hungry (and thirsty!) after your snowshoe or ski. Luckily, there are some particularly delightful places to fuel up. My two wintertime favorites are:
Grocer’s Daughter Chocolate: This place is what hot chocolate dreams are made of. It is a small, family-owned business that makes delectable craft chocolate treats including truffles, bars, bark, and various chocolate-covered confections. I love to stop in during the winter when they offer piping hot, milk and dark drinking chocolate with various add-in options (like chili and cinnamon!) and, of course, whipped cream.
Empire Village Inn: The Village Inn is the perfect, cozy-casual, local landing spot after a hike, ski, or snowshoe. I always look forward to their tap list of local microbrews, delicious pizza with lots of gourmet topping options (roasted garlic, anyone!?), salads, and sandwiches. I promise you will walk away feeling full and happy.
